Myanmar: Lago Inle y Mandalay

koh Lipe, 6º29'14''N 99º17'56''E

Inle lake and Mandalay

Después de los 3 dias de trekking llegamos al Lago Inle. La zona para quedase se llama Nyaung Shwe y esta al norte del lago. Yo me quede en una calle muy tranquila, llena de hotelillos y a 10 minutos del mercado.

Desde ahi se pueden hacer muchas cosas, pero yo me lo tome con tranquilidad. La primera tarde relax y la siguiente mañana relax. Luego me fui a dar un paseo por el mercado, quede para comer con un compañero de trekking y otro amigo y de ahi nos fuimos a visitar los viñedos (si) y a hacer una degustacion de vinos birmanos(si). Para esto hay que alquilar una bici.El lugar en cuestión esta a unos 25 minutos en lo alto de una colina y hay una bonita puesta de sol. El vino era malo pero la compañía y las vistas estupendos.

Esa noche nos dimos un ‘homenage’ en un bonito restaurante por detrás del mercado, el Thanaka. Me vais a disculpar, pero como voy con retraso en el blog, ya no recuerdo que comí, pero estaba todo muy rico y como dos éramos españoles compartimos dos platos y hasta tuvimos uno al centro para los 4 (para sorpresa de los extranjeros) jajaja.

Al día siguiente, para variar, nos levantamos al alba y pillamos un barco para recorrer el lago Inle. Se puede hacer un recorrido de día entero que va hasta el sur (a 2.5h de NS), pero tras recibir consejos fuimos hasta la mitad en un recorrido de medio día. Visitamos una fabrica de cigarros birmanos, una de barcas, un telar de seda donde nos enseñaron como sacaban la seda de la flor de Loto, un taller de plata y un par de templos. Y también los jardines flotantes.

Otra excursión que recomiendan es un día en bici rodeando la parte norte del lago, llegando a un manantial y cruzando el rio en barca, pero yo ya había tenido mi cupo de transporte de dos ruedas y coger de nuevo la bici era ya tentar a la suerte.

En general Nyaung Shwe es un lugar tranquilo para pasar unos días de relax. Yo me quede 3 noches pero es buen sitio para alargar la estancia.

De ahí me fui en una furgo a Mandalay. La cogi durante el día porque tardaba solo 7 h (frente a 10-11 del nocturno) y acerté porque con los botes que da la furgoneta hubiera sido imposible dormir.

De Mandalay no tengo mucho que decir, mas que que no me inspiro nada de nada. Un día visite los pueblos de los alrededores: Inwa, Sagaing y Amarapura, en este ultimo parando en un monasterio por la mañana para ver a los monjes hacer cola para su ultima comida diaria (si a las 10.30am), y por la tarde para ver su fantástica puesta de sol en el Puente U Bein.

Al dia siguiente visite el mercado de Mandalay y Mandalay Hill por la tarde para ver la puesta de sol. Sin mas.

After 3 days of trekking we arrived in Inle Lake. The place to stay is called Nyaung Shwe and it is north of the lake. I was in a really quiet street full of nice little hotels and just 10 minutes far from the market.

From there, you can do many things but I just wanted relax at that moment. I rested all the first afternoon and the next morning. Then I went t the market and had lunch with a mate from the trekk and another friend. After that we rented a bike and went to visit the winery (yes) an try some burmese wines (yes). It takes 20-25 minutes to get there and it is in a nice hill from where you could see a beautiful sunset. Wine was bad, but views and company were great.

That nice we had an amazing diner at the Thanaka, a place not far from the market. AS I’m so late with the blog, now I can not recall wat I ate, just that it was cool and as we were 2 spanish in the group, we share 2 different dises and also order one for the 4 of us (for the amusement of the foreigners hahaha)

The next day, we wke up with the sun and went for a boat trip on the lake. WE went for the half day trip, but you can d the whole day and go all the way shouth of the lake (that takes 2.5h). We visited the weaving place, a silver workshop, a place were thay made the wooden boats and the burmase ciggars as well as a couple of temples and the floating gardens.

It is also recomended to do another bike trip while here. That is to bike to the north part of the lake and then go south to the hot springs, and cross the lake afterwards, but I had had enough of two wheels transportation and wanted to get out of there alive.

Nyaung Shwe is a quiet place, I stay there for 3 days but it is a nice place to relax for longer if you have the time.

From there I took a minivan to Mandalay during the morning as it was shorther tha the night bus. It was a good decision as the road is so bumpy you could not sleep.

I have not much to say about Mandalay. I did not like it. 

On day I visited the sorrounding towns of Inwa, Sagaing and Amarapura were we visited the monastery in the morning and the u Bein’s Bridge for an amazing sunset in the evening. On the next day I visited the market and Mandalay Hill for sunset. Not much to say about that either.

Tips:

Nyaung Khan hotel (The little Inn)and Goldstar Hotel. I was going to stay in the first but tehy sent me to the second. Nice clean rooms for 12$ per night. Mine had 2 beds and was ensuite. They are one oposite the other.

Aquarius Inn.  In the same street. It is the place for meeting travelers. Book straight with them and will cost you 12$ per night.

Lin Htett, in one of the corners of the market. Nice burmese food.

Thanaka, ask for it as I don’t know the street. Is a fancy restaurante with great food and good prices.

Boat trips to the lake have 6 chairs, it is good to go to the port and arrange it straight there. It would cost around 5000-8000Kyats per person.

Bike rental, 1500kyats for the day (1euro).

There are several massage places around, which is nice if you’re coming from the trekking. 

Myanmar: Pics:Trekking from Kalaw to Inle lake, 54km/3 days-2nights

Kalaw shop, buying some cookies for the trekk.

Visiting the market

Great food during the trekking.

Our room in a local house. 

Pa-o old man in Patupak village.

Pa-o woman in Patupak

The Team.

Tips:

We did a 3 days/2 nights trekk. You can also do a 2 days 1 night. I would go for the second if I as to repeat, but'm not a trekking person. We walked around 6-7 hours per day but the last that were only 4.5 h plus 1.5 hours on a boat in Inle lake to get to Nyaung Shwe (town where all backpackers stay in Inle)

Trekk with Sam´s family agency. 40000 Kyats(less than 30 euros) if the group is of 5-6 people (6 is the maximum). Everything but drinks included. You´ll sleep in the houses of the local people. Bring something warm for the nights. They take your backpack to the hotel in Nyaung Shwe.

At Kalaw we slept at RailRoad Hotel. Really nice place and so friendly staff. They took us to the trekking shop in the morning not to have to carry our backpacks all the way. 15/30$ for a single/double room/brekfast included.

Everest restaurant in Kalaw (also in Nyaung Shwe) for nepali food.(4000 kyats~3euros).

Myanmar: Bagan

Lago Inle, 20º39´ 27´´N 96º 55´41´´E

Aunque no ha pasado mucho tiempo desde mi ultima entrada, si han pasado muchas cosas y me estoy quedando atrás con el blog. 

Hoy os voy a contar mi visita a Bagan. Muchos habréis oído hablar de este lugar, que es visita obligada si se viene a Myanmar. 

Hacia el año 1000, y durante 230 años,los reyes de Birmania construyeron en la zona unos 4000 templos Budistas que hoy a pesar de el abandono, el desgaste y el que las tareas de reconstrucción a veces dejan mucho que desear, no dejan a nadie indiferente (para los nombres de los templos, por favor, consultad una guia, ;) ).

Moverse por la zona arqueológica es sencillo utilizando e-bikes, los templos no están a mucha distancia unos de otros, eso si, para llegar a algunos mas escondidos hay que sufrir caminos de arena y baches, y muchas veces perderse entre los templos, y a pesar de no llegar al que se buscaba, descubrir otros tesoros entre las ruinas. 

Durante los días que pase en Bagan compartí aventuras con mucha gente (aunque a veces ser muchos complica el moverse). Nos levantábamos a las 4.30 para ir a ver el amanecer y seguíamos hasta medio día, luego descanso, para a las 5 salir de nuevo a ver la puesta de sol. 

Una mañana visite el Monte Popa, lugar de máxima devoción a los Nat, culto pre-budista que venera a los 37 spiritus Nat. Estos espíritus pueden ocupar formas naturales incluidos hombres y pueden ser malos o buenos. Los birmanos son son budistas, pero muchos siguen ademas creyendo en el culto Nat. El sitio está lleno de monos malvados.

Creo que al menos 3 dias enteros son necesarios en Bagan para poder disfrutarlo con cierta tranquilidad, aunque yo no tuve mucho tiempo para relajarme, entre la e-bike y los horarios...Pero fue una experiencia super divertida en un lugar increible. Como nota negativa, me cargue mi cámara reflex...ya os contare en que queda la cosa.

Although it wasn´t long ago that I made my last entry, many things have happened since.

Today I’m going to talk about my visit to Bagan. Most of you would have already hear about it, as it is one of the most famous places in Myanmar. 

Around 1000 and during some 230 years Bagan’s Kings built more than 4000 buddhist temples in the area. Despite the abandonment, erosion and bad restoration, the site won’t let you indiferent (check a guide for name of the temples and furhter info).

Move around the arqueological zone is so easy using e-bikes. Temples are not far away, to get to some of them you will have to go by bumpy and sandy paths and get lost on the way, but probably you’ll end up finding something interesting. 

Duting those days I spent in Bagan, I met a bunch of great people (allthough sometimes it is complicated to move around if there is many of you). We got up at 4.30am t go to a sunrise spot, keep going until noon, go back for a rest and continue at 5pm for the sunset. 

One morning I visited Mount Popa, place of worship to the 37 Nat spirits. That is a pre-buddhist believe, followed by most Burmese together with the buddhism. These spirits can take natural feathures including people, and can be good or bad. The place is full of mean monkeys.

I believe at least 3 days are needed to visit Bagan. Me I didn’t have much time for relax with the e-bike, the early mornings...but it was a really nice and fun experience in an amazing surrounding. On the dark side, I broke my refex camera...I’ll let you know what comes of it.

Tips:

Take a boat from Mandalay to enjoy the river life. Around 43 $ (9h).

Ostello Bello Hostel: great hostel atmosphere. Breakfast, pasta and burmase cigars included. Ensuite rooms. Nice staff and group activities: on some days they organize free guided sunset trips to secret temples and trivial evenings. 19$ (dorm bed).

A little travel: rent here your e-bike from 3000 to 5000 Kyats per day (they rent it to me for a sunset for 1000), and also arrange your bus tickets and accomodation if needed. Laundry service for 100 Kyats (that amounts to nothing, also if you are a good client they might do it for free). To drive those bikes is so easy as they are light scooters that only get to 30-40Km/h. If you have a flat tire or anyother problem they will come to your help!. They are just opposite Ostello bello.

The Moon: vegetarian restaurant. Fancy dises (around 5000 Kyats~4$).

Unforgetable Restaurant: Great currys for 2500 Kyats~2$ (1500 the vegetable one).

Girl preparing Tanaka (you'll see it in all burmese people faces)

Myanmar: Objetivo: Birmania, 1

Mandalay, 21º 58’29’’N 96º 5’15’’E

Empece por Yangon, la antigua capital de Myanmar (Rangoon antes). Por lo que me habían dicho, no merecía mas de un día, y ha sido una gran sorpresa porque me ha gustado su ritmo, su color y su gente. He desempolvado mi cámara con muchas ganas, creo que hacia dos años que no la sacaba de viaje!y me he cansado de hacer fotos a los edificios coloniales, llenos de ropa tendida y antenas de television...

La comida muy rica y baratisima, menos de 1.5 euros bebida incluida!! Comí en un Teashop, y pedí un plato típico, el mohinga, que es una especie de sopa de pescado con pan, y resulta que es un desayuno!!! Y cene en un indio, un thali vegetariano que picaba como yo que se...Todo hombres y ningún turista. Es curioso porque apenas vi turistas por la calle, solo en el hostel.

Las calles están llenas de puestos de comida, sobretodo en los alrededores de Chinatown y la calle Anawrhata.

Visite Bogyoke Aung San Market, lleno de puestos de telas y no pude evitar hacerme un ‘Lungui’ que es la falda birmana que llevan las chicas (los hombres también llevan, ya me enterare del nombre) para así ir como ellas (mas tapadita).

Como vista obligada fui a Shwedagon Paya, uno de los templos budistas mas sagrados tan alto que se ve ya desde lejos, de noche una pasada con la luna que había.

El museo Nacional me pareció de lo mas triste y oscuro, no invita a una visita de mas de una hora.

Genial coger el linea circular de tren para mezclarte con la gente. Es un recorrido de 3 horas, lento y el tren muy viejo, pero tambien te puedes bajar dode quieras y coger el de vuelta.

Y hala, la aventura de pillar un bus a Mandalay. Bus que salía a la 9 y para llegar a la estación me dijeron que me llevaban por 1000 Kyats (el taxi son 8000) si llegaba al punto de venta a las 6 (o salia a las 7 si iba por mi cuenta) ya que a esas horas hay mucho trafico. Así que me fui a las 6 y mi transporte a la estación resulto ser una camioneta abierta y con mas polvo que...bueno, no la habían limpiado nunca. A las 8 llegue a la estación que es una ciudad en si misma, menos mal que sabían a que autobus llevarme! y ya necesitaba una ducha. El bus muy cómodo, y con unas paradas que parecían parques de atracciones.

Y llegada a Mandalay a las 5.30am. Pillo un moto taxi y el tio me da un casco y tachan! Una cucaracha dentro! La muy capulla se escondió en alguna rendija y no salía y el hombre venga a decir que ya se había ido que no habia nada...hasta que no cambio el casco con un compañero no salimos de alli! Llegue al hostel aun mas sucia si podía! Pero me dieron la habitación al llegar a pesar de ser las 6 de la mañana y el desayuno. He puesto una lavadora y vuelta empezar.

I have started in Yangon, the former capital (Rangoon in colonial times). It has been a great surprise as I had been told only to spend one day there as it wasn’t really worth it. But I liked it! Its rythem, its colors, its people! I’ve taken out my camara (stored for at least 2 years) and didn’t get tired of the colonial buildings full of colorful clothes hanging form their windows, TV anthenas and so on...

Food has been a pleasure too, and so cheap. You can eat for less than 1.5 euros, drinks included. I went to a Teashop for lunch and ordered mohinga, a typical soup made of thin noodles and fish broth, that later I realiced it should be taken as breakfast. For diner I went to an Indian restaurant and eat a spicy thali, all that surrounded by men and no turists at all. I only saw turists at the hostel!

The range of street food was overwhelming, you could see food stalls everywere, specially around Chinatown and  Anawrhata Rd.

I visited Bogyoke Aung San Market, and couldn’t help to make myself a ‘lungui’, the typical burmese lady skirt, so I could cover my legs te way they do (men ware also a similar thing, I’ve yet to figure out the name).

As a mandatory visit I went to the Shwedagon Paya, one of the most sacred sites of Buddhism.It is so high you can see it from almost everywhere in Yangon. At night and with the moon it was a really beautiful sight.

The national museum is dark and looks like abandoned, I wouldn’t spend there more than an hour.

I also took the train circular line, a great way t mix with the locals.

And then an adventure to take the bus to Mandalay. Althoght it takes around 8’5 hours, you have to head to the bus station like 2 or 3 hours before for the night bus due to the high trafic in the afternoon. The ticket shop oferred me a lift to the station for only 1000 Kyats (against the 8000 for a normal taxi)so I accepted, and that lift was in an open and dusty van so I got to the bus station dirty as can be. The bus ride was good, very comfy, with stops so full of neons that looked like amusement parks. 

When we got to Mandalay bus station I took a moto taxi, and when the guy handed me the helmet I saw a big cockroach inside. I think it hide because the guy couldn’t see it but I wouldn’t leave until he changed the helmet with one of the other taxi drivers ahahah.

I got to the hostel even dirtier but being 6am they give me the room anyway as well as breakfast.  I put my clothes in the washing machine and I’m ready to start again!

Tips:

Yangon: Taxi from th airport 8000 Kyats.

Four Rivers Hstel, 15$. Nice people and great location in Chinatown. They can help you with bus tickets and also told me to go to the stadium Tickets stands for more options and rates. 

Lucky Seven teashop. Try mohinga, fish soup breakfast. 1400 Kyats with lime juice. 

New Delhi Restaurant, delicious vegetable thali for 1100 Kyat ( not even 1 euro!).

Take the train Circular line. 1000 Kyats, 3 hours or you can hop on and off.