Thursday, October 29, 2015

Myanmar: Pics:Trekking from Kalaw to Inle lake, 54km/3 days-2nights

Kalaw shop, buying some cookies for the trekk.
Visiting the market

Great food during the trekking.
Our room in a local house. 
Pa-o old man in Patupak village.
Pa-o woman in Patupak
The Team.

Tips:
We did a 3 days/2 nights trekk. You can also do a 2 days 1 night. I would go for the second if I as to repeat, but'm not a trekking person. We walked around 6-7 hours per day but the last that were only 4.5 h plus 1.5 hours on a boat in Inle lake to get to Nyaung Shwe (town where all backpackers stay in Inle)
Trekk with Sam´s family agency. 40000 Kyats(less than 30 euros) if the group is of 5-6 people (6 is the maximum). Everything but drinks included. You´ll sleep in the houses of the local people. Bring something warm for the nights. They take your backpack to the hotel in Nyaung Shwe.
At Kalaw we slept at RailRoad Hotel. Really nice place and so friendly staff. They took us to the trekking shop in the morning not to have to carry our backpacks all the way. 15/30$ for a single/double room/brekfast included.
Everest restaurant in Kalaw (also in Nyaung Shwe) for nepali food.(4000 kyats~3euros).



Sunday, October 25, 2015

Myanmar: Bagan

Lago Inle, 20º39´ 27´´N 96º 55´41´´E

Aunque no ha pasado mucho tiempo desde mi ultima entrada, si han pasado muchas cosas y me estoy quedando atrás con el blog. 
Hoy os voy a contar mi visita a Bagan. Muchos habréis oído hablar de este lugar, que es visita obligada si se viene a Myanmar. 
Hacia el año 1000, y durante 230 años,los reyes de Birmania construyeron en la zona unos 4000 templos Budistas que hoy a pesar de el abandono, el desgaste y el que las tareas de reconstrucción a veces dejan mucho que desear, no dejan a nadie indiferente (para los nombres de los templos, por favor, consultad una guia, ;) ).

Moverse por la zona arqueológica es sencillo utilizando e-bikes, los templos no están a mucha distancia unos de otros, eso si, para llegar a algunos mas escondidos hay que sufrir caminos de arena y baches, y muchas veces perderse entre los templos, y a pesar de no llegar al que se buscaba, descubrir otros tesoros entre las ruinas. 
Durante los días que pase en Bagan compartí aventuras con mucha gente (aunque a veces ser muchos complica el moverse). Nos levantábamos a las 4.30 para ir a ver el amanecer y seguíamos hasta medio día, luego descanso, para a las 5 salir de nuevo a ver la puesta de sol. 

Una mañana visite el Monte Popa, lugar de máxima devoción a los Nat, culto pre-budista que venera a los 37 spiritus Nat. Estos espíritus pueden ocupar formas naturales incluidos hombres y pueden ser malos o buenos. Los birmanos son son budistas, pero muchos siguen ademas creyendo en el culto Nat. El sitio está lleno de monos malvados.

Creo que al menos 3 dias enteros son necesarios en Bagan para poder disfrutarlo con cierta tranquilidad, aunque yo no tuve mucho tiempo para relajarme, entre la e-bike y los horarios...Pero fue una experiencia super divertida en un lugar increible. Como nota negativa, me cargue mi cámara reflex...ya os contare en que queda la cosa.

Although it wasn´t long ago that I made my last entry, many things have happened since.
Today I’m going to talk about my visit to Bagan. Most of you would have already hear about it, as it is one of the most famous places in Myanmar. 

Around 1000 and during some 230 years Bagan’s Kings built more than 4000 buddhist temples in the area. Despite the abandonment, erosion and bad restoration, the site won’t let you indiferent (check a guide for name of the temples and furhter info).

Move around the arqueological zone is so easy using e-bikes. Temples are not far away, to get to some of them you will have to go by bumpy and sandy paths and get lost on the way, but probably you’ll end up finding something interesting. 

Duting those days I spent in Bagan, I met a bunch of great people (allthough sometimes it is complicated to move around if there is many of you). We got up at 4.30am t go to a sunrise spot, keep going until noon, go back for a rest and continue at 5pm for the sunset. 

One morning I visited Mount Popa, place of worship to the 37 Nat spirits. That is a pre-buddhist believe, followed by most Burmese together with the buddhism. These spirits can take natural feathures including people, and can be good or bad. The place is full of mean monkeys.

I believe at least 3 days are needed to visit Bagan. Me I didn’t have much time for relax with the e-bike, the early mornings...but it was a really nice and fun experience in an amazing surrounding. On the dark side, I broke my refex camera...I’ll let you know what comes of it.




Tips:

Take a boat from Mandalay to enjoy the river life. Around 43 $ (9h).
Ostello Bello Hostel: great hostel atmosphere. Breakfast, pasta and burmase cigars included. Ensuite rooms. Nice staff and group activities: on some days they organize free guided sunset trips to secret temples and trivial evenings. 19$ (dorm bed).
A little travel: rent here your e-bike from 3000 to 5000 Kyats per day (they rent it to me for a sunset for 1000), and also arrange your bus tickets and accomodation if needed. Laundry service for 100 Kyats (that amounts to nothing, also if you are a good client they might do it for free). To drive those bikes is so easy as they are light scooters that only get to 30-40Km/h. If you have a flat tire or anyother problem they will come to your help!. They are just opposite Ostello bello.
The Moon: vegetarian restaurant. Fancy dises (around 5000 Kyats~4$).
Unforgetable Restaurant: Great currys for 2500 Kyats~2$ (1500 the vegetable one).

Girl preparing Tanaka (you'll see it in all burmese people faces)




Friday, October 16, 2015

Myanmar: Objetivo: Birmania, 1

Mandalay, 21º 58’29’’N 96º 5’15’’E

Empece por Yangon, la antigua capital de Myanmar (Rangoon antes). Por lo que me habían dicho, no merecía mas de un día, y ha sido una gran sorpresa porque me ha gustado su ritmo, su color y su gente. He desempolvado mi cámara con muchas ganas, creo que hacia dos años que no la sacaba de viaje!y me he cansado de hacer fotos a los edificios coloniales, llenos de ropa tendida y antenas de television...

La comida muy rica y baratisima, menos de 1.5 euros bebida incluida!! Comí en un Teashop, y pedí un plato típico, el mohinga, que es una especie de sopa de pescado con pan, y resulta que es un desayuno!!! Y cene en un indio, un thali vegetariano que picaba como yo que se...Todo hombres y ningún turista. Es curioso porque apenas vi turistas por la calle, solo en el hostel.
Las calles están llenas de puestos de comida, sobretodo en los alrededores de Chinatown y la calle Anawrhata.

Visite Bogyoke Aung San Market, lleno de puestos de telas y no pude evitar hacerme un ‘Lungui’ que es la falda birmana que llevan las chicas (los hombres también llevan, ya me enterare del nombre) para así ir como ellas (mas tapadita).
Como vista obligada fui a Shwedagon Paya, uno de los templos budistas mas sagrados tan alto que se ve ya desde lejos, de noche una pasada con la luna que había.
El museo Nacional me pareció de lo mas triste y oscuro, no invita a una visita de mas de una hora.
Genial coger el linea circular de tren para mezclarte con la gente. Es un recorrido de 3 horas, lento y el tren muy viejo, pero tambien te puedes bajar dode quieras y coger el de vuelta.
Y hala, la aventura de pillar un bus a Mandalay. Bus que salía a la 9 y para llegar a la estación me dijeron que me llevaban por 1000 Kyats (el taxi son 8000) si llegaba al punto de venta a las 6 (o salia a las 7 si iba por mi cuenta) ya que a esas horas hay mucho trafico. Así que me fui a las 6 y mi transporte a la estación resulto ser una camioneta abierta y con mas polvo que...bueno, no la habían limpiado nunca. A las 8 llegue a la estación que es una ciudad en si misma, menos mal que sabían a que autobus llevarme! y ya necesitaba una ducha. El bus muy cómodo, y con unas paradas que parecían parques de atracciones.
Y llegada a Mandalay a las 5.30am. Pillo un moto taxi y el tio me da un casco y tachan! Una cucaracha dentro! La muy capulla se escondió en alguna rendija y no salía y el hombre venga a decir que ya se había ido que no habia nada...hasta que no cambio el casco con un compañero no salimos de alli! Llegue al hostel aun mas sucia si podía! Pero me dieron la habitación al llegar a pesar de ser las 6 de la mañana y el desayuno. He puesto una lavadora y vuelta empezar.

I have started in Yangon, the former capital (Rangoon in colonial times). It has been a great surprise as I had been told only to spend one day there as it wasn’t really worth it. But I liked it! Its rythem, its colors, its people! I’ve taken out my camara (stored for at least 2 years) and didn’t get tired of the colonial buildings full of colorful clothes hanging form their windows, TV anthenas and so on...
Food has been a pleasure too, and so cheap. You can eat for less than 1.5 euros, drinks included. I went to a Teashop for lunch and ordered mohinga, a typical soup made of thin noodles and fish broth, that later I realiced it should be taken as breakfast. For diner I went to an Indian restaurant and eat a spicy thali, all that surrounded by men and no turists at all. I only saw turists at the hostel!
The range of street food was overwhelming, you could see food stalls everywere, specially around Chinatown and  Anawrhata Rd.
I visited Bogyoke Aung San Market, and couldn’t help to make myself a ‘lungui’, the typical burmese lady skirt, so I could cover my legs te way they do (men ware also a similar thing, I’ve yet to figure out the name).
As a mandatory visit I went to the Shwedagon Paya, one of the most sacred sites of Buddhism.It is so high you can see it from almost everywhere in Yangon. At night and with the moon it was a really beautiful sight.
The national museum is dark and looks like abandoned, I wouldn’t spend there more than an hour.
I also took the train circular line, a great way t mix with the locals.
And then an adventure to take the bus to Mandalay. Althoght it takes around 8’5 hours, you have to head to the bus station like 2 or 3 hours before for the night bus due to the high trafic in the afternoon. The ticket shop oferred me a lift to the station for only 1000 Kyats (against the 8000 for a normal taxi)so I accepted, and that lift was in an open and dusty van so I got to the bus station dirty as can be. The bus ride was good, very comfy, with stops so full of neons that looked like amusement parks. 
When we got to Mandalay bus station I took a moto taxi, and when the guy handed me the helmet I saw a big cockroach inside. I think it hide because the guy couldn’t see it but I wouldn’t leave until he changed the helmet with one of the other taxi drivers ahahah.
I got to the hostel even dirtier but being 6am they give me the room anyway as well as breakfast.  I put my clothes in the washing machine and I’m ready to start again!

Tips:
Yangon: Taxi from th airport 8000 Kyats.
Four Rivers Hstel, 15$. Nice people and great location in Chinatown. They can help you with bus tickets and also told me to go to the stadium Tickets stands for more options and rates. 
Lucky Seven teashop. Try mohinga, fish soup breakfast. 1400 Kyats with lime juice. 
New Delhi Restaurant, delicious vegetable thali for 1100 Kyat ( not even 1 euro!).
Take the train Circular line. 1000 Kyats, 3 hours or you can hop on and off.