Monday, September 5, 2016

Sri Lanka: central region, From Ella to Kandy

Tras el safari en Uda Walawe, de nuevo en bus (2) me dirigi a Ella. 
Ella es un puebo de montaña muy visitado por los viajeros, e invita a quedarse unos dias. Yo solo estuve una noche para poder abarcar mas y porque no soy muy fan de los trekkings. Visite el Little Adan's Peak, que se tarda en subir unos 45 minutos y desde el que se pueden disfrutar de unas vistas muy chulas, me di un paseo por las plantaciones de te y vi el puente de nueve arcos, por el que pasa el tren en direccion a Ella desde Badulla. Esto se puede hacer en una tarde y aun hay tiempo a pasearse por el pueblo, cenar algo rico y tomarse algo. A quien le guste mas caminar, pueden aventurarse a subier a Ella's Rock y tambien visitar las cascadas de Rawana (que se ven al llegar a Ella si vas en bus). 

En ella coincidi con Nicole, y nos fuimos a cenar, comprar te y acabar la noche con un mojito. 
Otro motivo, y el mio principal para visitar Ella, es que desde ahi sale el tren a Kandy, que es conocido como uno de los mas bonitos del mundo. Se aconseja reservar con antelacion, pero llegue tarde y no quedaba nada mas que tercera clase y me dijeron en la taquilla que mejor iba directamente que seguro que tenia el mismo dia en segunda y a precio sin reserva (menos de la mitad). Al final, cuando llegue por la mañana habia cancelaciones y consegui un billete en segunda y asi me asegure mi asiento.

Yo cogi el tren de las 9.23 y complete su recorrido hasta Kandy. Tiene numerosas paradas pero la gente suele ir o bien a Haputale, a una hora de Ella o hasta Nuwara Eliya. Me recomendaron ir directa a Kandy, y asi lo hice. Son 7 horas de viaje. La parte mas bonita esta entre Nuwara Eliya y Kandy, y tambien la parte mas fria (esta a casi 2000m). En mi caso, ademas, llovio tambien en las alturas asi que pasamos algo de frio. l tren, ademas de kms y kms de plantaciones de te se pueden ver las llanuras del Horton y El fin del Mundo. La verdad que el tren merece mucho la pena, es un must en la visita a Sri Lanka.

Al dia siguiente visite Kandy con un chico Israeli. Fuimos al famoso Templo del diente de Buda, rodeando el Lago, el paseo hasta alli es muy bonito, en el Templo hay ceremonias por la mañana y por la tarde, todos visten de blanco y llevan flores como ofrendas. La entrada es algo cara a mi parecer, unos 10 dolares para una visita de 20 minutos. El diente, que es la reliquia mas importante de Sri lanka, no se puede ver. 

De ahi subimos a ver el Big Budda y fuimos a un jardin de especias, donde un hombre muy amable se tomo su tiempo explicandonos una a una las especias ue cultivan  sus usos: clavo, canela, vainilla,-cacao, cardamomo, nutmeg (ni idea)...
Le pedi al tuktukero que nos llevara a comer a algun sitio local y nos llevo al mercado, donde hay un pequeño restaurante local a la entrada y donde comimos genial, por fin. la comida no es muy alla en este pais hasta donde yo he probado.

Por la noche, eramos un grupo grande y el dueño del hostel nos llevo a cenar a un sitio plagado de mochileros, fue divertido escuchar las historias de los viajes de la gente, muchos venian de la India, otros tantos empezaban sus largo viaje aqui en Sri Lanka. Al dia siguiente se jugaba un partido de criquet muy importante: Australia vs Sri Lanka, y muchos iban a ir a verlo, yo de ahi, me dirigi a Sigiriya a visitar la Roca.
(Tips al final del texto).

After the safary in Uda Walawe, I went to Ella on the bus (2). Ella is a town in the mountain very visited by the turists (for the train and also beacuse it atmosphere invites you to stay longer). I stay there only for a night as I was not going to do any trekking, and I visited the Little Adan's Peak, the tea plantations and thee ) arch Bridge. Those who love hikking can climb Ella's Rock and also visit the Rawana falls. I visited all in one afternoon, met again nicloe and we gent for a roty diner and a mojito.

The main reason I was in Ella was to take the train to Kandy. They advise to book in advance but I got there too late for the reserved tickets, and was adviced by the guy at the counter to return in the morning as those days it was not full and could get tickets without reservation much more cheaper. When I got to the train station in the morning some 2nd class were cancelled and I got a seat (I didn't dare to buy the cheapest and have to go standing up all the way to Kandy. I took the train at 9.23. Most people takes to train to Haputale, 1 hour away from Ella, to Nawara Eliya or Kandy, all the way to Kandy takes 7 hours. The nicest part is from Nawara Eliya to Kandy, and also the coldest as that part is almost at 2000m. It rained also the most of the trip. From the train you go through many tea plantations and also get to see the Horton's plains and the World's end. It is a must in Sri Lanka. 

I got to kandy and the net day i visited the city with an Israely guy. We went to the Buddha's Tooth temple on a walk by the lake. 
The tooth in the buddhist most sacared relic in Sri lanka and there were a lot of locals visiting it. They wear white and offered floweres. There are 2 ceremonies during the day (morning and evening). From my point of view the entry is a little expensive, 10 dolars for a visit that does not last more than 20/30 minutes. You cannot see the tooth.

From there we went to the Big Buddha and to the spicy garden were we were explanide oll spices hervested in Sri Lanka along with their uses. I asked the tuk tuk driver to take us somewhere local to eat lunch and he took us to the market where there was a small local restaurant where I finally enjoyed the Sri Lanka rice and curry. So far food is not being great...

At night we were a big group of travellers and the owner of the hostel took us for diner to a place full of backpackers. It was fun and we got to hear many travel stories. People were mostly coming from some time on India or starting their trips here in Sri Lanka. Many were going to watch the criquet game the day after: Australia vs Sri Lanka. I would continue my trip to Sigiriya to climb the Lion's Rock.

Tips (prices in SLruppies):

In Uda Tuk Tuk to bus 100 rpBs from Uda Wallabe to Wellawaya, 105 rp, form there to Ella 60 rp.
I stayed in Bloom Rose Inn in Ella, it is a homestay, they rent 3 rooms, mine was great, all new, but with carpet! It was so clean though and the grandmaa and niece (Daya and Dinithri) were so nice. 21 dollars, is kinda difficult to find cheaper and nice. Well worth it!

From there you can visit the Little Adan's peak, no need to take any tuk tuk as I decided to do everything on foot. 
We got diner at Down Town Rotty House, it was quite nice but one of the waiters was awful, which is a weird thing to find here as everybody is really nice. We had a drink at a plce just in the corner of the road that goes to the Rail station, 400 rp(2,4euros) not bad!
Tain to Kandy: reserved, 1st 1000 rp, 2nd 600 rp, no reserved: 2nd 240 rp

Once in Kandy I shared a tuk tuk with a couple and I paid ony 100 rp. I found a rotty stall were I had diner for only 50 rp on the way from my hostel to the lake.
Kandy Hostel backpackers Lanka: 12 dolars shared female room with breakfast. It was ok, nice place to meet people but no character, needs a bit of care!.
Ticket to Tooth temple: 1500 rp
Ticket to Big Buddha: 200 rp
Spice garden: free, buy something!
Diner at Slightly Chilled: around 1000 rp


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